What could be more fun than visiting your local open-air market for fresh regional organic vegetables and fruits, dried sausages, nougat, a roasted chicken with potatoes to take home for an easy lunch, some pretty clothing or sandals, local truffles or tapenades, and the list goes on! Continue reading Markets in and around Cotignac
We’ve all heard about the joys, the wonders, and the benefits of living in the countryside and particularly in the South of France: the clean air, the abundant warm and sunny days, the cheap delicious wine, the long lunches surrounded by vineyards and olive groves, the fresh local produce and open air markets, the list goes on and on. But if you are looking into living here long term you’ll probably want to know about the down sides too, and better yet, how to avoid them (if possible). My observations and list of negative aspects to living here certainly do not compare to the much longer list of positives and the blessed aspects and are of course relative because they are my personal views based on my own experience of living in this region (PACA) for the last 15 years as an “etrangere.” It should also be noted too that my views stem from being of several nationalities and cultures (American, Japanese, and British)as well as from my age: I am currently 49 years old and live with my French husband and our children who are 9 and 13 years old.
No.1 Lack of jobs. The biggest downside to living in rural Southern France is the lack of jobs available. And the unemployment rates here are very high. In the PACA region the average is currently around 12 to 14 per cent. In Cotignac the rate is as high as 16 per cent according to JDN’s Emploi et chômage
So if you think you’ll find a job easily here, think again. Unless you are willing to commute long distances and drive over 3 hours every day (to larger cities like Marseille, Toulon, or Nice) you may well find yourself jobless or taking on remenial jobs in the service industry (restaurants and cleaning for example). If you have a teaching qualification English is always popular but public school posts are extremely difficult to come by and private lessons are not so popular for many here who do not make much more than the SMIC (minimum wage) of just over 1,000 euros per month. You would be in luck, however, if your full time job requires that you simply have an internet connection. However this too can cause some problems if you are dependent on high speed connection as most rural villages here are not equipped yet. The current president Macron has pledged to make all of France connected to high speed by the year 2022. On the otherhand if you like the idea of running a holiday villas rental service/agency, there is always room for that. But it’s no easy business to be in. More on that later in another article.
No. 2 Nothing ever gets done on time. Building work, paper work, dealing with businesses, etc, can test your patience here in the South of France. If you come from the big cities of the West like I did, you’ll find this one especially mind boggling and very frustrating. Getting an immediate response is so rare when it does happen it will make your entire year and you’ll be giddy with happiness. No joke: plumbers, electricians, builders, bankers, painters, etc, seem to have little competition here and often appear aloof and authoritative when you meet them. The French culture has been shaped also by Socialism and we need to remember that the business relations culture also reflects the political ideals. The notion of “customer is king” simply does not exist here. So if you find a good worker, you’ll want to not only keep their contact details to yourself but will find yourself “kissing the ground they walk on” and doing just about anything to keep them reponsive to your calls. It will be you that ends up meeting them at their convenience and not yours. You’ll need to adjust your schedules to fit them in when they say they’ll come ’round.
No. 3 The Small village gossip syndrome. Rural French villages are often small. Cotignac’s current population is 2, 336. Over 60 per cent of the population is above retirement age (65 plus). The active population is around 730. So we’re a small active community. Which means everyone knows everyone’s business, generally speaking. Unless you are anti-social, you will be seen and noticed which means people will talk about you. If someone got married, had a baby, had an accident, gotten divorced, or – and here’s the worst – caused a scandal involving breakups of families, you’ll hear about it. If you caused the scandal, you’ll be shamed. So if you’re addicted to drama, it’s best to stay in a large city where anonymity may save some face. In the small villages (and this is probably true anywhere in the world) life can feel a little suffocating when someone asks you about your friends’ recent car accident or someone else’s husband running off with the babysitter or why you think so-and-so jumped off a bridge. And that is if the stories are even true. Sometimes rumours spread that destroy reputations and cause people to move to another village or as far as another country. Of course this happens everywhere but in a village where you hear about it so often it feels like it’s constant. So a good rule of thumb to follow is that if you don’t want people to know about something just don’t talk about it – to anyone.
No. 4 You need a car. If you’re like me and need to feed a family you’ll need to stock up on groceries which means driving to the supermarkets. The closest to Cotignac is the SPAR on the route de Brignoles. But that is still 4 kilometres away from the village centre. There is a small convenience store on the Cours but you don’t want to carry heavy bags back up a hill every other day (although there is a delivery service if you call ahead). So a minimum-weekly-visit to the larger supermarkets (like E.Leclerc, Intermaché, Hyper U or Casino) needs driving to. The largest shopping mall is in Brignoles (20 kms) and for a big selection or department store you’ll need to go as far as Toulon La Valette (63 kms). Public transportation to these places are poorly scheduled and slow. If you like your life to be surrounded by conveniences and you do not like to drive, a rural village in Southern France is not the place for you. On the other hand the internet is a great place to shop and just about anyone can receive just about anything by post these days. And this has been a god-send to me!
No. 5 Winters are cold. Now, if you come from places like Canada, Scandinavia, or anywhere north of France you’ll laugh at this but it’s not so much the temperatures here that get cold (Cotignac can get as low as minus 8 degrees) but the majority of houses that are ill equipped to keep you warm enough in them. Many houses are not sufficiently insulated and often electric heaters do not provide enough relief or consume so much that electric bills become no longer affordable. Oil is another popular method of radiator heating but unless the house is new or has been properly restored and updated to modern standards (most old village houses are over 300 years old) it can also be cost prohibitive. Newer houses could be equipped with heat pumps (minimum 15K euros) or with considerable investment geothermal energy can be tapped but this is reserved for those with very big budgets. Many people use wood burning stoves here which can heat small spaces well but needs constant attention (and clean up once a day). You’ll also need to order your wood which gets delivered but then dumped in a big mountain in front of your doorstep and if that’s blocking traffic in anyway you’ll have to very quickly stack it in a safe dry place so let’s hope you have the stamina and energy! Heating is needed from around the end of October to end of April and maybe longer if your house is not South-facing.
No. 6 Most shops are closed Mondays, Wednesday afternoons and Sundays. They are also more often closed for lunch between 12 and 3 or even 4pm during their open days. Sometimes it seems nothing is open on Mondays; not banks, not restaurants, not even hairdressers. And that’s just routine around here. The only really safe days to go shopping in the village are Tuesdays (it’s also our market day) and Thursdays. It’s worse in the Winter time and some shops and restaurants close their doors for the entire season.
No. 7 Locals are hard to get to know. I found that it took me about an average of 18 months before I finally got invited over to dinner at my first local friend’s house. Rural French people just take a long time to get to know. They are very discrete and not trusting at first but with perseverance and grit, you’ll be accepted into their hearts. Once they let you in, they tend to be very loyal and warm and will be there to help when you need them the most. And that is something worth its weight in gold and something you cannot live without here in the countryside. If you get invited over to a local French couples’ or family meal, don’t forget to bring them a nice bottle of wine (make it one of quality, nothing cheap) and expect to spend a good 4 hours chatting while dining slowly. Invitation meals are never rushed.
No. 8 Participate in associations. Local associations provide entertainment throughout the year for any village in France but they are also an important source of information and social gatherings for networking. It’s through an association that you’ll meet people on the local council, the mayor, and the various individuals that make the village work all year ’round. Cotignac has a larger than average number of associations that keep locals and tourists busy all year by organising events such as concerts, theatre productions, festivals (the Quince festival in October for example), Christmas markets, feasts, parties, balls, artist expositions, museums, cinema, music lessons, sports activities and popular events like the annual Trail Race in June. Participating in an association is easy. Just contact the president of the association of your choice and let them know you wish to participate. There is a list of associations for Cotignac here. You will be invited to their next meeting and participate in the organisation of their next event. And you’ll make lots of new friends in the process. The downside of this though is that you really do need to commit your time and energy and participate with the association for the entire year at the least. You’ll be frowned upon if you give up mid-way. And remember you’ll be talked about so you need to stay on your best behaviour!
Having said all that, I still love it here and would not dream of living anywhere else.
CURRENTLY available for long term (minimum 2 nights’ stay) let starting January 21st 2018 until mid April 25th 2018. In the heart of the gorgeous village of Cotignac:
If you are interested in booking this house for your next holiday, please contact Susana directly at provencelivingconsulting@
NB: interior furnishings may change slightly without notice
What a night! For over seven hours Cotignac was partying the night away in epic fashion. We loved all the pink-clad men and women, the groovy tunes by DJ Nick Boot (UK DJs Abroad) https://www.facebook.com/ukdjsabroad/, and all the top quality local rosé producers and the best of Mirabeau-en-Provence wine too. For three euros anyone could buy a glass with their choice of rosé wine (and get to take the souvenir glass home). Two euros topped the glass up. The ambiance and the decoration, the great wine and music combined really got everyone in such a good mood it was a joy to be part of! There were pink Italian sandwiches, hamburgers, shaved ice cream with water melon, and lots more in the name of food stands and food trucks too. Locals and tourists alike were all having a blast and the good vibes continued into the wee hours. La vie en rosé is alive and well in Cotignac!
Tourists often confuse these two outdoor sales events but basically a Brocante is run by professionals and a Vide Grenier by either a local municipality and/or an association.
At a Brocante one can typically find lots of antiques in the form of cutlery, decoration, furniture, and jewelry. You’ll also find art in the form of sculptures, framed paintings, old posters, and textiles. The people behind the stands are professional buyer-sellers who spend much of their time collecting and then selling their treasured items at regular brocante markets around the region. Some travel from as far away as the North of France. My personal experience in shopping at Brocantes is that they often over-price items but if you tell the seller you are local and that you’d like to negotiate the price, they are mostly open to this. It helps if your French is very good, of course. Continue reading Brocante versus Vide Grenier
There’s a new exposition in town and it opened today at the Centre d’Art La Falaise, in Cotignac. The current collection features regional fine artists, sculptors and photographers (in alphabetical order): Elian Bachini, Jean Marie Cartereau, Chantal Casefont, Martine Doll, Michel Dufresne, Alain Francois, Vonick Laubreton, Stéphane Lovighi-Brougogne, Manuel Pontarelli, Eric Principaud and Carla Van Der Werf.
The centre is a beautiful renovated old chapel and was once a cinema from the 1930s until the early ’60s. It was then turned into a restaurant until ten years ago when it became a garage until Mirabeau Wine turned the lower floor into its headquarters and boutique two years ago. Anyone can enter the Centre d’Art on the first floor for a very reasonable fee of just two euros, benefiting the privately run non-profit foundation. If you are a local or live here most of the year, I highly recommend getting a “Pass Privilège” for just 5 euros with access to all the expositions (not counting other events such as concerts or conferences) throughout the year. For more information and announcements, follow their facebook page here.
Opening hours from 15th April – 14th May: Tuesdays and Fridays 10h00-12h30 15h00-17h30, Thursdays (from 27th April) 10h – 12h30 and
weekends (Saturdays and Sundays):
11h00-12h30 & 15h00-17:30
– jeudi – 10h à 12h30
– dimanche – 11h à 12h30 et 15h à 17h30
Follow their facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/centredartlafalaise/?fref=ts
This year’s Cotignac Trail Challenge will take place on the 4th of June and if last year’s event is anything to go by, it’ll be another smashing day full of excitement and participation from the entire village. Continue reading Cotignac Trail Challenge – the best annual sports event
Recently written up in our local newspaper the Var Matin, Le Mas de Cotignac offers Michelin standard “voluptuous” accommodation for even the fussiest of guests. If you are looking for a romantic break, a tranquil vacation, or a weekend getaway without the kids, this is the place to unwind and be luxuriously pampered. They are located just outside the village. Le Mas de Cotignac is an exceptional bed and breakfast with table d’hôtes (possibility to book lunches and dinners) with swimming pool and jacuzzi. And their service is also top notch and attentive to guests’ every need. Continue reading Le Mas de Cotignac – accommodation and table d’hôtes
Here in Cotignac there will be no less than five bars and restaurants that will offer entertainment in the form of live music or DJs throughout this Summer so don’t miss out on the fun and make your table reservations early 🙂 Continue reading Cotignac’s restaurant entertainment (Summer 2016)
It’s always great to report on the opening of a new shop in our village, especially if it’s a nice one! In Cotignac, on the rue Léon Gérard just down the road from the Bar de L’Union, you’ll find this new shop full of really pretty deco items: lamps, small furniture, towels, bed spreads, cushions, candles and dishes, etc. Continue reading New deco shop L’INTEMPOREL
Cotignac’s circuit walk is fun to do at any time of the year but it’s particularly pretty in the early Fall when the fruit is ripe for picking and the tourist crowds have gone. The temperatures are much cooler at this time too, making it a joy, rather than a pain, to walk in the sun. Count on taking about 45 – 55 minutes (leisurely) or 30 minutes (sport/fast walking). The walk is suitable for moderately fit to fit walkers but not suitable for the disabled or unfit elderly. Continue reading Cotignac’s circuit walk revisited
So what’s it really like to LIVE here in Cotignac all year long? I get a lot of questions like “how cold is it, what is there to do in the off-seasons, what are the locals really like when you aren’t a tourist and are living right next to them? Continue reading A typical year in Cotignac
Black and white photos do something to an image that I really love, particularly when a lot of sunlight is in them: shadows are more pronounced, skies look more mysterious and the photos allow the viewer to see different aspects of the subject at hand. Time seems to stop and the monochrome world somehow appears less busy, more calm, and with fewer flaws. Many of these photos capture images of buildings that most likely looked exactly the same several hundreds of years ago. Cotignac is an exceptionally beautiful village in the Var department of France and I find something every day to photograph here that makes my heart skip a beat. – Susana
The Cotignac resident music producer Mr Ossy Hoppe generously put on another fabulous show last night with the band “Five and the Red One”. The opening act was rather intriguing; five gals in nuns’ outfits banged on their guitars and drums and put on an energetic show for a massive crowd! But by far the best views were from Mirabeau Wine’s first floor terrace and one is considered lucky to be invited there. The concert attracted over 500 people from all over and many visitors came to Cotignac just to see the show. Let’s hope it continues next year and for many years to come! A BIG thank you to Mr Ossy Hoppe who contributes the profits to Cotignac’s local associations and is a very valuable philanthropist here. He’s also known in the music world as a producer of popular music (rock) and we are very lucky to have his know-how and expertise in our little village in the Var. 2016’s rock concert is scheduled for Saturday, the 30th July. See you there!!
You can find almost everything you need to DIY in Cotignac at Coti Brico, just near the post office and across the street from the fire station. It’s easy to park there too, you can drive right in! They even sell garden furniture and stuff for your swimming pool, light bulbs, tools, batteries, garden needs, paint, and lots more. Take a peek the next time you need something like…rope or a ladder or even a hoe!
Photos from 2013 and 2014 in Cotignac 21st June Fête de la Musique Continue reading Fête de la Musique in Cotignac
During the annual Fete de la Musique the town of Cotignac was entertained by a good band at the top of the road between Le Marigny and Bar de’l Union and a DJ outside Phil’s. The whole town was out in force and enjoyed the evening immensely…
I get a lot of questions particularly about restaurants and wine and what to do in the area so I thought I’d share my personal recommendations with you. These are a culmination of my many years of experience here and I do hope the information contributes towards either a better visiting or living experience for you. Any questions, please feel free to ask! – Susana 🙂
Welcome to the region that gave birth to Rosé wine more than 2,000 years ago!
So you wish to taste the wine in and around Cotignac but don’t know where to start? This article will give you best route to take. Continue reading Cotignac Wine Hopping (Tasting)
This is by far my favourite walk and an easy one for most people. Just 3 km from center of Cotignac, over past the Medieval Forts (towers), past grape vines and the oldest chapel around (12th Century Chapel St Martin), a big waterfall and over two bridges to get back down into the village – it’s just wonderful no matter what time of year! Follow this guide:
From the Place de la Mairie (town square) go up past the Tapissier (rue de la Placette) and follow up to rue Plan de Giraud, through the archway of rue de la Puade and up the hill (follow signs to the forts). You will walk past the old silk factory on your right (rue de la Puade) then to the two forts at the top of the village cliffs. These are called the « Tours Medievals ». Pass the forts on your left and continue following the arrow and sun signs (stay right). Keep you your right and keep going. Make a right turn when you see « le mas de lapins », two clay rabbits adorning a gate and follow the narrow path past an olive grove on your left. Make a left turn after passing the little hamlet of houses which will lead you across a small bridge and to the Chapel St Martin. Make a left at the chapel (chemin du Derroc) and continue past the vineyards and down the hill. You will eventually come to the path with the view of the waterfall on your left. Continue straight and eventually the path will lead you over a small foot bridge, then back to the village.